Our kilts can be pleated to the sett in the traditional manner or pleated to the stripe in the military manner. We can even take the military style a stage further and add rosettes in the style of the Black Watch.
Our kilts are tailored with full deep pleats necessary to assure the graceful swing that is the hallmark of a good kilt. Standard kilts have 8 yards but larger sizes require nine or ten yards. In an eight-yard kilt the pleats alone contain over seven yards of cloth and are therefore quite heavy. A good kilt maker needs to ensure that these pleats won't sag over time. To this end heavy canvas is pad stitched along the back behind the lining at the top of the pleated area. Furthermore each pleat is backstitched to its neighbour. You can readily tell if this has been done if you can insert a pencil up behind the stitched portion of the pleated section. This process (known as 'lifting') is time consuming and adds to the cost of the kilt. Omit this and your kilt will look good at first, but will soon lose its shape.
The kilt is normally pleated 'to the sett' (this is where the pleats are arranged so that the sett of the tartan is maintained as shown here) but you may have it pleated 'to the stripe' (this was the usual manner for regimental kilts where the back of the kilt was pleated to show a broad stripe - the sett only appearing when the pleats opened when the kilt was 'swinging').